I’ve been wanting to make more outdoor furniture for awhile. I had success building two outdoor chairs for my husband as a Christmas gift and since those are the only furniture pieces we have for outdoors, I thought a table would be nice as a Father’s Day gift and something the whole family can enjoy. My inspiration for this build is from a table that World Market sells called the Sevilla Outdoor Dining Table.

This is my version of that table and I want to be very clear and state that the material that I used for this build is NOT meant for outdoors and I know that. I chose to use 2x4s to build this because of the inexpensive cost. I don’t know how long it will last and I’m not expecting it to last forever. The cost of lumber for this build was $50!

Disclamer-DIY at your own risk!

Tools:

Drill/Driver

Compound Miter Saw

Table Saw (for squaring the edges of the 2x4s)

Pocket Hole Jig

Sander

Sanding Disks

Tape Measure

Combination Square

Forstner Bit or Paddle Bit

Materials:

Figure 8 tabs

Pocket Hole Screws-made for outdoors- 2 1/2″ and 1 1/4″

Wood Glue-made for outdoors

Wood Conditioner

Stain

Sealer

Rags/brush for stain and sealer

Safety:

eye protection

ear protection

mask

CUT LIST

TABLE BASE

*All of my wood for this project was made out of 2x4s that had the rounded edges squared*

(8) 1 1/2″ x 3 1/4″ @ 29 1/4″- table legs

(2) 1 1/2″ x 3 1/4″@ 63 3/8″- long apron

(2) 1 1/2″ x 3 1/4″ @ 27 3/8″- short apron

(1) 1 1/2″ x 3 1/4″@ 30″ middle support

TABLETOP

Dimensions 72″L x 36″ D

(2) 1 1/2″ x 3 1/4″ @ 36 smaller end frame pieces

(2) 1 1/2″ x 3 1/4″ @ 65 1/2″ long frame pieces

(2) 1 1/2″ x 3 1/4″ @ 29 1/2″ middle pieces

(16) 1 1/2″ x 3 1/4″ @ 29 1/2″ slats

I started off by squaring all my edges of the 2x4s on my table saw and then made all my pieces 3 1/4″ in width. I cut my 2x4s ( now 1.5 x 3.25 ) into (8) 29 1/4″ long pieces. Once all the leg pieces were cut, I glued two pieces together which will make one chunkier table leg. I continued gluing up two pieces together until I had four legs and then clamped them while the glue set up. Once the glue was dry I ran them back through my table saw and made them 3x3s.

I then cut (2) 2x4s to 63 3/8 ” and (2) 2x4s to 27 3/8″ these are the pieces that I will connect to all four legs and that will make up the apron of the table.

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Once a all of the pieces were cut for the base of the table I made all of my pocket holes using a pocket hole jig. The pocket holes were only made on the ends of the apron pieces and I made sure to have them facing on the inside to keep them hidden.

Before assembling the base and the tabletop I sanded all of the pieces.

I marked a 1/4″ in on each leg where I would be attaching my apron using a combination square.

I put together the ends first using glue and 2 1/2″ Blue-Kote pocket hole screws. I made sure to place my pocket-holes where they won’t be seen.

Next I attached the long apron pieces.

After getting the base all together I decided to add a support in the middle.

Before I got to work on the tabletop, I stained the base. I applied a pre-stain wood conditioner first, then used a Valspar stain in the color Mixed Nuts. After I applied that color I used White Wash by Varathane on top of the Valspar. When applying both stains I would wipe it on and then wipe it right off. I chose these materials because I already had them on hand from a previous project.

Now for the top. I started by attaching my longer pieces to the end pieces with pocket holes and 2 1/2″ Blue Kote pocket hole screws and waterproof wood glue. I also stained the inside of the frame before adding the slats because I knew it would be difficult once the slats were in place.

I cut my slats to size and did all of my sanding before staining and attaching.

I then figured out the center, which is at 32 3/4″ and attached a slat to the outside of the center line on each side, so the two boards should meet up right at the center line.

I used a wood conditioner before I stained both sides of the slats and made sure they were dry before attaching them. I thought it would be easier than trying to get in between all of the nooks and crannies after it was built.

I evenly spaced each slat approximately 3/8″ apart and secured them with glue and 2 1/2″ Blue Kote pocket hole screws.

Once all the slats were in place I went ahead and finished staining and sealing the top and sealing the base of the table before I attached both pieces together.

I let everything dry and then added the figure 8 fastener clips using a forstner bit and 1 1/4″ Blue Kote pocket hole screws to secure them. I used eight in total and put one on each end and two on each of the longer aprons and one on my middle support and then laid the tabletop down with the underside facing up and laid the base on top and made sure the over hang was even on all sides before securing the base to the top with the same 1 1/4″ Blue Kote pocket hole screws.

Here is the finished table! I’m so happy with how it came out, and I look forward to more building!